When you ask
someone from Australia, England or the US which cities they know in
Brazil, they'll all know Rio de Janeiro. It's one of the most well
known cities in the world, overflowing with historical landmarks,
amazing scenery and beautiful beaches. Beyond Rio? Most will also
know the huge city of São
Paulo and some will know the capital of Brasília.
Nobody knows Porto
Alegre. Nobody.
I certainly
didn't. The first I ever heard of Brazil's southernmost state capital
was when the Australian national team (the Socceroos) was drawn to
play it's second match of the 2014 FIFA World Cup there against the
Netherlands.
My first time in Porto Alegre watching football
While I did some
research before arriving in Porto Alegre for the match, I really
didn't know what to expect from the city. Other Brazilians had less
than glowing reviews about the city and it's people.
When I did finally
come to the city, I had an incredible time. It helped that
Australia's match against the Dutch was one of the games of the
tournament, but it was more than that. Contrary to their reputation
throughout the rest of their country, the people of Porto Alegre were
exceptionally friendly and welcoming.
My host for the
four days I was in town (through Couch Surfing) was one of the best
hosts I've ever had. He loved his city and really wanted me to enjoy
it too. While I was only in town for a few days, I some great people
(one in particular, but we'll talk about that another time) and felt
that Porto Alegre was one of the few cities that I'd seen in the
previous six months of travel through Latin America that I could
actually live in for some time.
One of the most beautiful streets in Porto Alegre
Now, less than 18
months later, I'm back and starting to learn more and more about the
city and state of Rio Grande do Sul. The people here are known as
Gaúchos
– basically South American cowboys – and they're very proud of
their culture which is distinct from other parts of the country.
The
state of Rio Grande do Sul could easily have become it's own country.
It was at times part of Spanish and Portuguese territory and has been
the centre of numerous battles for independence from the the rest of
Brazil. As a result it shares as many cultural traditions with
surrounding countries like Uruguay and Argentina as it does with the
people of Rio.
Traditional Churrasco
Chimarrão
and Churrasco are two things that are virtually a way of life in Rio
Grande do Sul and yet are far less noticeable in the rest of the
country. Chimarrão,
known is Spanish speaking countries as maté,
is a green tea like hot drink consumed almost religiously by Gaúchos.
Meanwhile, churrasco – Brazilian barbecue – has its roots in Rio
Grande do Sul and the locals here are know throughout the country for
the quality of their churrascos.
Chimarrão
Porto
Alegre has some great neighbourhoods, from the Historical Centre, to
Cidade Baixa which wouldn't look out of place in Melbourne's hipster
northern suburbs, or Moinhos de Vento which wouldn't look out of
place in Melbourne's yuppie southern suburbs. It also has beautiful
parks like Gasômetro,
alongside of the great lake (which they call a river) and Redenção
(also known as Parque Farroupilha) which the locals are very proud
of.
Churrasco in the park
Gaúchos
love nothing more than spending a Sunday afternoon wandering around
one of the many parks and green spaces in Porto Alegre sharing their
Chimarrão,
or sitting around and cooking some meat to perfection.
This
is clearly a place I can get used to.
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